Brow mapping is a skill that will take a lot of practice and patience as all your clients will have varying bone structures, asymmetries, fat volume on the temples, and muscle pulls.

This step is how you will achieve the client's desired brow style and shape. It is very important to make sure you and your client are on the same page before starting any microblading or shading.

You will need inked string, a caliber to measure, and a china marker/brow mapping pencil.

In order to create this shape, we first have to start with an outline. There are 7 steps to help you achieve a nicely symmetrical shape that lines up with your client's features.

Step 1- Find the center of the face from the cupids bow

(little dip above the lips), up the center of the middle of the nose, in between both fronts of the brows. You can always go back and recenter this line if its not perfectly centered. This center line is important as it will act as your symmetry check point.

Step 2- Find the heads of the brows.

This is the front of the brow to see where you will start microblading and/or shading. You can find this from finding a small little dip in the nose, and pulling your string up. If you have a client that has retracted brows, meaning they do not grow alot of hair in the fronts, you don't want to pull out the shape too far from where the original hair grows. This is simply because over time, microblading fades and the distinction between the microblading and hair will become very obvious. You always want to aim for a natural blend. I recommend max 1.5-2mm from where the hair starts. You also do not want to bring the fronts too close to the center line as it can make your client look angry. If your client wants a more natural look, go from the outside of the nose and pull your string upward.

In this model's case, I would start the microblading slightly behind her natural hair as she already has good length in the fronts and her natural hairs will blend in with her microblading, giving her the most natural look.

Step 3- Find where the brow will end on the tail end.

Step 2-3 will find the total length of the brow. On average, a normal brow is about 2". You are going to go from the OUTSIDE of the nostril to the outer corner of the eye and pull your string upward. If your client has a naturally long thick tail, keep it and do not shave it off. Most clients will like the length that they have.

Step 4- Finding where your arch will start to fold

You will go from the dip of the nose, (have your client look right at your nose), to the outer corner of the pupil and pull your string upward

Step 5- Finding the thickness of the brows

Most of your clients will request a thinner brow as most clients are very afraid of having thick, scary brows.

Use this rule of thumb when you mark your 2 lines for thickness

• 3-4 mm is a thin brow, 4-6mm is a medium brow and a 6-8mm is a thick brow

You will make 2 horizontal lines. The top horizontal line will be where the brows stop growing and the second horizontal line will be right underneath the bottom of the hairs.

Step 6- Finding how high your client's arch will sit on the face

Ask your client if they prefer a soft low arch, or a high sitting arch. Always take your client's preferences into consideration, but if your client asks you for a unflattering shape or a style of brow that goes against your brow style then recommend something else for them.

For the most part, you want to make a long horizontal line touching from arch to arch. You will want this line to hug right where the highest point of hair is.

In this case, this model's natural arch sits pretty low. If she requested a high arch, I would suggest against it as her natural hairs do not sit that high and the microblading would look unnatural on her. Remember- you want to achieve the most natural shape for your client so their brow maintenance is easy to keep up with.

Step 7- Is connecting all your steps together

You will have horizontal lines and vertical lines. Where these lines intersect will be your A, B, and C points. This is when our STEP 1 comes in handy. Step 1 is designed to make sure that both brows are symmetrical, or somewhat symmetrical if dealing with a client that has major asymmetry.

You want to go from point A --> B, B--> C and the same thing on the bottom of the brow. The head of the brow (points A,A) should be the thickest part of the brow. the arch of the brow (points B,B) should be thinner than points A,A or the brow will look very masculine.

The bottom B you will need to eyeball and measure with your caliber later to make sure it is thinner than the heads of the brows.

Start with 1 side of the brow, and then work your way to the other brow. make sure everything crosses at an "X" at the center line for symmetry.